With record arrivals last year and many recent articles in international media, the large and vibrant year-round Cretan capital is entering the travel map with a new face, giving us a reason for a unique winter break.
With record arrivals last year and many recent articles in international media, the large and vibrant year-round Cretan capital is making its mark on the travel map with a new face, giving us a reason for a unique winter break.
The travel writer for the “Telegraph,” Christopher Somerville, notes with some bewilderment the dusty, disorganized chaos of Heraklion. However, he acknowledges its atmosphere and the appearance of an ancient Mediterranean city, its complex history, and the reward it offers to visitors who take the time to explore it on foot.
He makes a special mention of the Archaeological Museum, the richest in findings from the Minoan period in the entire world.
And we would respond that he is understating it, as we love every alley of the Cretan capital (dusty or not).
A dynamic city where the hustle never stops, open-hearted and full of life, a city where you can find everything and which year by year opens up more to the world, effortlessly maintaining its characteristic Cretan pride.
Especially now in the winter when tourists are fewer and the pace is gentler, the personality of Heraklion embraces you from all sides with a strength and charm that is completely unexpected.
The backbone of the city
The heart of Heraklion, where everything happens, is the historic center.
There are many complaints about the architectural interventions that have been made, but the authentic form of the historic center retains its essential elements and remains captivating: the neoclassical buildings on 25th of August Street, the magnificent church of Saint Titus (961 AD) in the square that is magically lit at night, the Basilica of Saint Mark which hosts exhibitions and cultural events, the Loggia which houses the town hall, up to the Lion’s Fountain (Eleftherios Venizelos Square) with the famous bougatsa at “Fyllosofies” and “Kirkor,” and a labyrinth of pedestrian streets filled with bars, cafes, and rakadika.
A bit further up, the modern shops (whatever you need, you will find it) stand alongside the old ones on the pedestrianized 1866 Street. At its end, you’ll find Kornarou Square with the Hatzim Ibrahim Aga Fountain, which has been converted into a café, and next to it, the beautiful Venetian Bembo Fountain. Just outside the historic center, if you want to feel the soul of the city, take a stroll through neighborhoods like Kaminia or Agia Triada, which we predict will become the center of attention in the coming years.
The backbone of the city
If at some point the scent of the sea draws you away from the inner city, the wonderful redevelopment of the waterfront from about five years ago has much to offer.
Starting from the Pankritio Stadium and stretching to the Venetian Port, there’s a stunning blue view as far as the eye can see. The “Mare Coffee Bar & Food” (Platia Xenia, 2810241946) offers coffee in a unique setting, biking for the more athletic, the wonderful Natural History Museum, and the Historical Museum.
Reaching the Venetian Port, you will see the remnants of the 14th-century shipyards, and directly opposite, the majestic Koules breakwater, the 16th-century sea fortress, which awaits you for wonderful sunset walks. The route along the Venetian walls, romantic and laden with history, offers a beautiful view of the city.
Best of Taste and Hotelling
In Heraklion, tradition coexists with the contemporary, the urban with the rustic, the restaurant with the taverna, and raki with fine wines.
Exceptional traditional Cretan cuisine can be found at “Merastri” in a beautiful mansion and at “Erganos.” This year, several of the city’s top hotels are also refreshing their gastronomic offerings.
At the contemporary restaurant “Brillant” in the “Lato” hotel, Chef Exarchos Delibasis prepares modern Cretan cuisine. In the equally modern “Vetri” of the “Galaxy” hotel, young Chef Iosif Giannitsopoulos offers creations based on Cretan ingredients. Meanwhile, at the all-day “626” in the new eco-friendly “Olive Green” hotel (2810302900), you can enjoy modern international cuisine and a great brunch.
A new hotel arrival is the “Ibis Styles Heraklion Central Hotel” (2810282020), the first Ibis Styles in Greece and one of the affordable hotel brands of the major French group Accor Hotels, which opened this past summer. As we mentioned, Heraklion is on the rise.
Eating & Drinking for Every Taste
Cretan dishes with modern touches in preparation and presentation can be found at “Peskevi,” featuring a stunning inner courtyard (Kapetan Charalampi 6-8, 2810288887).
For meat lovers, try “Kouzeineri” with its unbeatable pork knuckle baked in parchment paper for 7 hours (Lochagou Marineli, 2810346452), traditional grilling at “Parasties” by Haris (Handakos 81, 2810225009), and outside the city at “Butcher’s Bar” with special cuts (Agias Paraskevis 107, Hersonissos, 2897022246).
For meze, the traditional mezedokafeneio “Vourvouladiko” at Hygiene Square is an institution, while the more alternative “Kafenes tou Kayampi” (Monofatsiou 12, 2810226286), with just five tables, offers a unique personality.
For cocktails, try “Halavro” (Milatou 10, 6945699292), the very unique “Wets & Drys Speakeasy” reminiscent of a club, as you need a code to enter (Korai 7, 6945699292), and “Bitters Bar,” which also offers premium spirits (Lions Square Arcade, 2810333877).
For selected wine labels in a lovely atmosphere, we recommend the wine bars “Opus” (Kapetan Charalampi 3, 2810225151), “Cellar” (Theotokopoulou 26, 2810331000), and “Oinoteka” (Geronymaki 4, 2810282800).
For coffee, try “Crop” (Arethousas 4, 2810221058) and for specialty coffees (which we wouldn’t say is part of the city’s culture), “New Wave Coffee Hacienda” (Andrea Papandreou 25, 2811810261).
